Berching - 2

Wednesday, 29th July.

It rained through the night, had stopped by this morning but was overcast so we took the rainjackets with us on the ride to Beilngries, just in case.  

It was an easy ride, enjoyable apart from the occasional shower which was just enough to be a nuisance and we arrived in plenty of time to visit a couple of shops, have a stroll and a light lunch before catching the 12.45pm ferry back to Berching...or so we thought.  The cafe was busy and our order took such a long time to come we had to rush for the ferry, arriving at the landing in time to wave it goodbye.  Disappointed, as we were looking forward to the ferry ride, we headed across the canal to ride back on the opposite side, only to find the cycle path there was  blocked.  The alternatives were to stay on that side of the canal and ride on the busy main road or to cross the bridge again and go back the way we'd come.  The main road didn't appeal at all so back across the bridge we went.  It rained on and off for the rest of the afternoon so we were glad we had the jackets.  We stopped at Plankstetten on the way to visit the Benedictine Monastery there and went into Berching on our return.  It's a very attractive old walled town but as the rain had become rather heavy, we had to seek refuge in a cafe where we indulged in coffee and f.a.cream cake, hoping that the rain which has now stopped will stay away so we can have a good look around in the morning before we leave.

Berching

Tuesday, 28th July.

We revisited Kloster Weltenburg this morning,

driving through Kelheim this time and not taking the ferry, left Boris in the car park and walked the 800 metres to the monastery, which was quite crowded. 

We didn't stay long, just long enough to visit the small chapel up the hill, the large ornate church where several monks were chanting their prayers, and to have a walk around. There is a small ferry near the monastery which takes people and bikes across the Danube so we stopped to watch that in operation...it is attached by cable to another cable which runs across the river, and is operated by oar. 

Back through Kelheim, we stopped for supplies at Riedenburg and had lunch, then went on to Berching on the Main-Donau Canal with a stop at Beilngries, another canal town for a look around.  Tomorrow we plan to do a 10km ferry/bike ride back to Beilngries.

Bad Abbach

Monday, 27th July.

Taking a different route from Vilshofen this morning, we back tracked towards Kelheim, stopping at Donaustaut on the outskirts of Regensburg to visit Walhalla, another King Ludwig 1 monument.  This one houses busts of dozens of notable people and was recommended to us by the people we met at Monheim a week ago.  It also has fantastic panoramic views over the Danube so we had to take photos, then it was a half hour drive on the autobahn to Bad Abbach, our overnighter.
We walked down the hill into the town but there wasn't a lot to see, apart from the bakery where we bought a small loaf there didn't seem to be anything else open so we walked back up the hill.  A quiet night ensued!

Vilshofen / Horhirchen

Sunday, 26th July.

We slept in this morning, a bit tired after yesterday's big day out, having ridden a total of 28kms...a new record for the Fossils!  A much shorter ride was in order today...across the bridge to town, morning coffee and cake (Sydney had trouble choosing),

an attempt to visit the monastery which was thwarted by a road blockage with no alternative route found, an easy, enjoyable 7km ride up river to Hofkirchen, and return,

and another visit to town, after which it was chilling out time at the camp.

Vilsofen/Passau

Saturday, 25h July.

It was a short drive this morning of about 37kms to Vilshofen on the Danube.



From here, we planned to take a boat ride down river to Passau but were a little perplexed when we rode across the bridge to the boat landing and found four long cruise boats double parked where the ferry boats stop.  There was no indication as to where the ferry would pull in, when it would arrive or how we would get the bikes on board.  When it finally arrived, twenty minutes late, the half dozen others also waiting boarded easily through the two cruise boats at the landing but as there were stairs to negotiate, we wheeled the bikes around the deck of the first boat only to find that we had to go up a level to get across to the next boat.  Fortunately, a crew member took pity on me and carried my bike up the stairs and helped Mike with his, we stepped across to the second boat but were now a level too high to cross over to the ferry.  Another young man picked up my bike, carried it down the stairs and on to the ferry, then went back for Mike's.



The ferry only goes to Passau from Vilshofen on Thursdays and Saturdays, which is the reason we're here today and we are very happy that we didn't have to change our plans, as we thought we might.  The trip down the river was lovely, a little warm out on deck so we didn't stay there for the whole journey but sat inside gazing at the view through the lovely big windows, sipping a nice cold beer.
There were at least 8 cruise boats berthed at Passau when we arrived, but none at the ferry landing so there was no problem getting the bikes off the boat. 









We locked them up by the tourist office and walked through the old town, managed to dodge under cover when the rain came, went into St Stephen 's Cathedral



which houses the world's largest cathedral organ and was hosting a celebration, of what I'm afraid we don't know, wandered through the streets, watched dancers in their national costumes, treated ourselves to coffee and f.a.cream cake, rode to the confluence of the rivers Danube, Ilz and Inn, then rode the 23kms back to Vilshofen.  The weather was cool but no more rain, making the ride a pleasant one, there is a cycle path for all but about 500 metres,



there were many people fishing along the banks of the river with several obviously camping out, all set up with tents etc. .....try doing that along the Swan! ....and we stopped at a pub at about the half way mark, for a light meal and drinks.  A fantastic day!

Lalling

Friday, 24th July.

Leaving Riedenburg this morning, our first stop was in Kelheim to visit Befreiungshalle (Hall of Liberation), commissioned by King Ludwig 1 to commemorate both the victorious battles against Napoleon during the Wars of Liberation 1813-1815 and the unification of all the German races.  

The interior of this truly magnificent building is dominated by 34 Goddesses of Victory made of white marble, mounted with linked hands on an encircling base and symbolising the thirty four German states of the German Confederation which was founded in 1815.  

Well worth the visit!
On then to autobahn #3 but because of major roadworks and lane closures, we weren't able to access the exit ramp to Bogen,  our intended destination and so exited at the next off ramp to check out the camperstop at Bernried, which we found was not as advertised in the guidebook so went on to Lalling.  Luckily the scenery was gorgeous, all rolling green hills, patchwork farms etc. as the three of seven camperstops in Lalling that we looked at were misrepresented in the book and we were on the verge of being hot and bothered when we found Wohmobilstellplatz Weber, a large grassed area behind a family home, with all the services needed AND a swimming pool.  We jumped in the pool as soon as possible to cool down, then sat in the shade till the sun went down and it was time to retire for the night.

Still in Riedenburg

Thursday, 23rd July.

We slept late this morning, it was overcast and much cooler than it has been for the last few days and we decided over breakfast to stay here another night.  It was meant to be another rest day but we've been busy most of the day with washing, changing Mike's bike tube due to our first flat in 2 years, doing maintenance on Boris and pottering around  doing little odd jobs although we did manage to squeeze in a visit to the bakery for coffee and a pastry each!

Kelheim

Wednesday, 22nd July.

We moved to a shady spot this morning, vacated by the couple from Chiemsee whom we'd talked to last night, rode into town which is only a few hundred metres away, stopped at a cafe for coffee, bought bread rolls from the bakery and boat tickets from a gallery, had lunch, cold showers to cool down and rode back to town for the ferry trip to Kelheim, 17kms away at the southern or Danube end of the canal.  Wednesday is half price for seniors day so there were plenty of older than us people on board, 

we sat inside in air conditioned comfort for most of the journey and on reaching Kelheim, rode through the town to the Danube to catch the ferry to Kloster Weltenburg which houses the oldest monastic brewery in the world.  Unfortunately, although only about 6kms from Kelheim, the journey took 45 minutes as the ferry battled against the fast flowing River Danube, through the spectacular Danube Gorge, 

so by the time we arrived we had only 15 minutes before the last ferry back to Kelheim.  We rushed down to have a quick look at the monastery, 

didn't have enough time to visit but may be able to try again before we leave this area.  The return journey took 20 minutes!  We had chosen the late ferries in order to ride back to Riedenburg in the cool of the evening, not realising there could be a tidal problem.
The ride back was enjoyable, there was a threat of rain but that came much later when we were safely home, and even then it was nothing too serious.
Another fabulous day!

Riedenberg

Tuesday, 31st July.

After yesterday's 'rest day', we strolled into town in the early evening with the intention of having a before dinner drink at one of the pubs there.  Everything was closed as teams of workers were still busy dismantling the market stalls, bars, etc. and clearing up after the festival but we saw our neighbours Karen and Alfred from Bremen sitting on a bench drinking beer they had bought from one of the work teams so joined them.  'Our' team had almost finished their clearing up, were having an after work party and invited us to join them, we didn't want to intrude on a private party so declined but they were insistent and so we spent a fun hour or so with them...a great time with great people.
We said auf wiedersehen to Karen and Alfred, and to Monheim this morning for  the drive to Riedenburg on the Main-Donau Canal, which, as the name suggests, connects the Main and Donau ( Danube) rivers.   Another scenic drive, longer than expected due to yet another diversion but this one was caused by major road works.  We arrived here in the early afternoon and after a visit to the tourist office in town went for a short ride along the canal, visited a museum housing music players, went for another ride on the other side of the canal and treated ourselves to an ice cream each.

Montag Ruhetag

Monday, 20th July.

For those not so fluent in German as Mike, it roughly means "Monday Restday"
The adventure continues tomorrow.

Monheim

Sunday, 19th July.

What a fabulous day!  Monheim wasn't on our list of places to visit but on checking our maps last night, we realised that we could be close to the route Shirley and Les were travelling and may cross paths at some stage, so sent a message, they replied, they had been here in Monheim for two nights, had a wonderful time at the Historic Town Festival being staged this weekend, were leaving this morning but would wait until we arrived. 
It was just over an hour's drive, pleasantly cool and as it was early, a Sunday morning with no trucks on the road and not much other traffic, it was most enjoyable.  There was a deviation which added a few kilometres to the journey, it seems that around this time of year, many towns and villages close to through traffic while their event is happening, causing a little confusion for those unfamiliar with the territory as we have found in the last few days, but we find our way eventually and it's all good fun!
It was good to catch up and compare travel stories with Shirley and Les and when they left, we took their spot.  A five minute walk into the town and we were transported back to medieval times with people in costumes, market stalls, street theatre, music, plenty of food and drink and a big parade lasting half an hour and involving what seemed like hundreds of people with hundreds more lining the streets.  We thoroughly enjoyed the experience and after a rest back with Boris, we strolled back into the past for a couple of hours in the evening.