Loire

Thurs : 5^th June, 2014.  We woke to brilliant blue sky and sunshine, a different beginning from yesterday.  After breakfast on the ‘terrace’ (a couple of large railway sleepers which served as both table and seats),

we drove the short distance to Chateau de Hautefort,

arriving a few minutes after opening time when there were very few people about and so were able to spend a couple of hours exploring the wonderful rooms and glorious gardens unhindered.  Located on the site of a former Roman camp, the medieval fortress was transformed into an imposing stately home during the 17^th century and at 8,50 euros each entry fee, well worth the visit…recommended!

Photos inside the chateau are not allowed, but we took plenty of the exterior and gardens.

Leaving Hautefort, we found that the road we’d planned to take was blocked by roadworks and a deviation was indicated.  Following the signs, we headed off on a small road, expecting to see signs indicating the way back to the main road, but no, there were none and so we did a little detour, (i.e. we got lost), with a lunch stop at the lovely little village of Tourtoirac, and on leaving afterwards, encountered a musical quartet who were stranded there when their car broke down. They were to play at a wedding in Lanouaille, about 20kms away, had rung for a car to collect them but as it hadn’t arrived, they were becoming frantic and asked if we could help.  We could and were happy to do so, and they had just begun loading their gear into the campervan when their car turned up. They then transferred the gear out of Boris into the car and off they sped, but not before one of the ladies told Mike that she too was Australian, from Bribie Island but with a strong French accent. 

There was no time to ask questions as they were in a great hurry and on our way out of town, we passed the tow truck with their car on the back.  Hope they got to the church in time!

It was on then to the aire at Oradour-sur-Glane where we are staying tonight.  Once we were settled in, the bikes came down off the rack and we rode to the town to visit the remains of the old town, burned after 200 S.S. soldiers murdered 634 inhabitants, including 193 children, on 10^th June, 1944.   It was decided after the war not to rebuild or demolish what was left of the town, but to leave it as it was as a memorial to those who perished.  A very moving experience. 

Fri :  6^th June, 2014.  Another beautiful sunny day.  We didn’t know exactly where we were going today, but set off in the general direction of the Loire region, stopping at a rest area in Moulismes, for a break and a bite to eat before continuing on to Chauvigny, where we parked Boris and walked up to the medieval city.  It was a steep climb and an interesting city

…while partaking of a cold drink in the café, we watched on the TV there, a little of the D-Day services being held in Normandy.  Unfortunately we didn’t understand any of the commentary, but we did see Tony Abbott!

Our chosen aire for tonight was not very inviting so we went on to the next which was even less inviting, being in the carpark of the very busy SuperU supermarket.  So, on to the next which turned out to be in the SuperMarche supermarket car park, so on to the next, which was the municipal campsite and was closed and so on again and we found ourselves at Martizay, slightly off course but a lovely little town and an excellent aire alongside a river.  All’s well that ends well!

Mon : 9^th June.   There is not a lot to report as Saturday was spent travelling and Sunday was a rest day.   From Martizay we drove through lovely countryside to Dampierre sur Loire, our overnighter, with a stop for a morning coffee at le Grand Pessigny. 

Here we entertained ourselves by people watching…seated at the next table were three men and two women deep in conversation, all talking at the same time, (except for one of the men who seemed to be the observer, with an occasional interjection) which seems to be the French way…I don’t know how they follow what’s being said, but they seem to and an elderly lady we’d seen sitting about 20 metres away staggered to the café, sat at a table with a couple of other elderly ladies who’d just arrived, lit a cigarette and drank a glass of white wine…at 10am She didn’t look as though she was long for this world and I guess she thinks she might as well enjoy herself while she’s here!  The town is not on the tourist trail and its people are ordinary people like ourselves, going about their daily business, very friendly, very helpful and is the kind of town we like to visit.

The aire at Dampierre was large, grassy and shady and we decided to stay two nights and ride to Saumur, 6kms away on Sunday.  That plan was shelved when the fridge decided to play up again so we moved to a campsite in Allonnes so that we can have electricity and get the temperature down.  It’s working and this morning, we will ride to Saumur which is about 8kms away from Allonnes. 

The camp here is really nice (Le Po Dore - number 1295 in the ACSI book) and very well run by a most friendly couple who are only too happy to please. In the camp is a pool - but no ordinary pool. It has been built with a white sand beach all around. We feel very comfortable here and will stay a couple of nights.